Inspired from Why does it hurt the next day after doing significant exercise? with its excellent answer:

In climbing, you can put tremendous load on the hand/fore-arm muscles (specifically, flexor pollicus longus and flexor digitorum profundus). What happens is often that you are not just fatigued, but that the muscles seem to "lock up" - they subjectively feel "hard", it seems impossible to relax and the problem does not go away after a few minutes, by stretching (which will actually become quite painful) or by self-massage.

The muscles are not necessarily showing the burning sensation that indicates lactate buildup according to the answer for the linked question. This effect seems to be a main cause for athletes to prematurely end a training session because there's little hope to solve it except for a long (hours...) rest. People have trouble opening doors etc. because the muscles seem to be completely wasted. Onset is immediate during or after a straining exercise, not later, like DOMS would be. After a good nights sleep, the problem usually seems to go away, it is not a day-long soreness.

Is that effect rather related to damage (micro tears etc.) or some chemical process? Is there a good way to prevent it, either in the short or long term, i.e. by training specifically for/against it? Are you aware of other muscles that show the same behaviour? I have only experienced it in those.


Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.